TY - JOUR

T1 - Balancing Refinement and Manliness

T2 - A Beauty Formula for Men’s Social and Professional Success

AU - Hird, Derek

PY - 2024

Y1 - 2024

N2 - This article discusses the difficult balancing act between refinement and manliness that male beauty vloggers seek to perform, in the context of shifting ideals of masculinity in China’s modern history. It examines several techniques that male beauty vloggers promote as a non-feminising aesthetics, which enable young men to gain social prestige and professional advancement, without being labelled sissies or damaging their heteronormative masculinity in any way. The vloggers’ strategy resonates with attempts in the male cosmetics industry starting in the Republican era to create new masculine ideals that enhance men’s social, sexual and professional appeal, while enabling them to continue to enjoy the benefits of a conventionally acceptable masculinity. At all times, women’s impact on re-shaping male ideals has been significant. The article highlights the argument from both men and women that refined and manly makeup offers the ordinary Chinese man a productive, quick and affordable way to gaining an edge in a highly competitive world. Hybrid and flexible masculinities and the heterosexual matrix provide the main conceptual frameworks for the study.

AB - This article discusses the difficult balancing act between refinement and manliness that male beauty vloggers seek to perform, in the context of shifting ideals of masculinity in China’s modern history. It examines several techniques that male beauty vloggers promote as a non-feminising aesthetics, which enable young men to gain social prestige and professional advancement, without being labelled sissies or damaging their heteronormative masculinity in any way. The vloggers’ strategy resonates with attempts in the male cosmetics industry starting in the Republican era to create new masculine ideals that enhance men’s social, sexual and professional appeal, while enabling them to continue to enjoy the benefits of a conventionally acceptable masculinity. At all times, women’s impact on re-shaping male ideals has been significant. The article highlights the argument from both men and women that refined and manly makeup offers the ordinary Chinese man a productive, quick and affordable way to gaining an edge in a highly competitive world. Hybrid and flexible masculinities and the heterosexual matrix provide the main conceptual frameworks for the study.

KW - masculinity

KW - China

KW - refinement

KW - beauty

KW - cosmetics

KW - vlogging

U2 - 10.1163/15685268-02601043

DO - 10.1163/15685268-02601043

M3 - Journal article

VL - 26

SP - 114

EP - 143

JO - Nan Nü: Men, Women and Gender in China

JF - Nan Nü: Men, Women and Gender in China

SN - 1387-6805

IS - 1

ER -