TY - GEN

T1 - Homegrown/Homespun; Scaling Up a Low-Carbon Textile System in Lancashire

AU - Pribyl, Helena

PY - 2023

Y1 - 2023

N2 - With growing interest in ethically- and environmentally-sound fashion systems,regional economic resilience, and community climate action, this research aimed to investigate the feasibility to upscale a localised and low-carbon textile system. Using a case study approach of the ‘Homegrown/Homespun’ textile initiative in Blackburn, East Lancashire, the thesis highlights the opportunities and tensions involved in upscale, focusing on a proposed flax and natural indigo supply chain.Guided by the triple bottom line (TBL) framework for sustainability (Elkington,1998), a mixed-methods approach drew conclusions from primary and secondary quantitative and qualitative data. Contributing to a growing interdisciplinary field of research, the thesis is situated between the fields of environmental research, sustainable supply chain management, transitions research, and environmental psychology.The research findings recommend a gradual re-localisation, recognising theshort-term trade-offs between elements of sustainability within a long-term vision towards a UK-based sustainable textiles industry. Collaborative endeavours across the industry are suggested to support economic feasibility, considering the current economic and infrastructural challenges. The carbon life cycle assessment (LCA) proposes flax-based denim to be a low-carbon fibre alternative, potentially with less than half the associated carbon impact of a cotton pair of jeans.A participatory action approach supported holistic and community-centricresearch into social sustainability within TBL. Findings from a small sample imply the ‘Homegrown/Homespun’ project facilitates the behavioural and psychological capability of the volunteering community to engage in environmental action.This research has supported a greater understanding of upscaling sustainablebusiness models and considering the prospects for re-shoring garment manufacturing to a high-cost economy, building on existing literature. The thesis contributes an indepth account of upscaling efforts from small-scale initiatives grounded in sustainability principles and innovative thinking.

AB - With growing interest in ethically- and environmentally-sound fashion systems,regional economic resilience, and community climate action, this research aimed to investigate the feasibility to upscale a localised and low-carbon textile system. Using a case study approach of the ‘Homegrown/Homespun’ textile initiative in Blackburn, East Lancashire, the thesis highlights the opportunities and tensions involved in upscale, focusing on a proposed flax and natural indigo supply chain.Guided by the triple bottom line (TBL) framework for sustainability (Elkington,1998), a mixed-methods approach drew conclusions from primary and secondary quantitative and qualitative data. Contributing to a growing interdisciplinary field of research, the thesis is situated between the fields of environmental research, sustainable supply chain management, transitions research, and environmental psychology.The research findings recommend a gradual re-localisation, recognising theshort-term trade-offs between elements of sustainability within a long-term vision towards a UK-based sustainable textiles industry. Collaborative endeavours across the industry are suggested to support economic feasibility, considering the current economic and infrastructural challenges. The carbon life cycle assessment (LCA) proposes flax-based denim to be a low-carbon fibre alternative, potentially with less than half the associated carbon impact of a cotton pair of jeans.A participatory action approach supported holistic and community-centricresearch into social sustainability within TBL. Findings from a small sample imply the ‘Homegrown/Homespun’ project facilitates the behavioural and psychological capability of the volunteering community to engage in environmental action.This research has supported a greater understanding of upscaling sustainablebusiness models and considering the prospects for re-shoring garment manufacturing to a high-cost economy, building on existing literature. The thesis contributes an indepth account of upscaling efforts from small-scale initiatives grounded in sustainability principles and innovative thinking.

KW - Textiles

KW - Supply Chain Management

KW - Regenerative Farming

KW - Climate Action

KW - Re-shoring

KW - Sustainability

KW - TBL sustainability

U2 - 10.17635/lancaster/thesis/1914

DO - 10.17635/lancaster/thesis/1914

M3 - Master's Thesis

PB - Lancaster University

ER -